LUXURIES OF VIENNA (PT I) by Anisha Shah

What happened on Anisha’s first day in Vienna? Follow her footsteps here:

After an exhilarating first night alone in Vienna, spent admiring illuminated sights on my own little walking tour, I feel much more confident. In 3 days, you can see everything, with some careful planning and map-reading. I’ve even included pit-stops at virtually every traditional coffee house in the city! Well, I am visiting Vienna to eat and drink my way through.

What really makes my journey super-special are the little gems I discover and learn, through sheer curiosity and effort. Invaluable insider information to get the best vantage view points, notice elements that’ll guarantee you better appreciate a sight and tips to be that little bit different. Here are my top tips for Day 1 in Vienna:


1.HOTEL IMPERIAL & CAFÉ IMPERIAL
As a female travelling alone, security is of paramount consideration. This, in addition to being a traditionalist at heart, means I favour intimate classic luxury hotels. The luxury part…well, any other type just won’t do! Luckily, Vienna poses difficult decision-making through its extent of offerings in this category, boasting some of the grandest historic hotels. The Hotel Bristol, Sacher and Imperial are renowned as the ‘three grandes dames’.

With an exclusive Butler service, who’ll even accompany guests on day trips should they require, and a guest-list of royalty & dignitaries taking up an entire wall in the historic Hall of Fame, Hotel Imperial is my choice. I like the fact that it’s grand yet boutique. And my suite is perfect for space, seclusion and privacy. Occupying its own block, the Hotel is at the forefront of security, which goes hand in hand with its timeless tradition of hosting the Kings & Queens of most world countries, including Queen Elizabeth II, Muammar Gaddafi and Bill Clinton as well as Rock-star legends such as Billy Joel, Prince and Rod Stewart. The traditional concierge service is groomed, polished and very well-informed, meaning I need not look far for interesting nuggets of history, advice or tickets to sell-out events. It’s also a very central base to explore the beautiful city, just a minute’s walk form the legendary Staatsoper Opera Theatre.

CAFÉ IMPERIAL:
Influential arts icons are likely to be seen penning music, songs and novels in the legendary ‘Café Imperial,’ whilst sipping a Melange coffee and delighting in the infamous Imperial Torte, of milk chocolate, wafer, almond pastry, marzipan and cacao cream! As I do, just that, I bump into Riccardo Muti, Music Director of the Chicago Symphony Orchestra.

  

2. KARLSKIRCHE or ST CHARLES’ CHURCH
A dominant landmark south of the Ringstrasse, so much so that it’s one of the first buildings I gravitate towards. Take the glass elevator to drift up into its domes, where one final push is required up narrow disconcerting steps to dizzying heights; not only for the view, but for the wide dome-shaped ceiling emblazoned in frescoes of heaven, angels and cherubs. In a 3-D real-life effect, it’s hard to keep your balance as your neck cricks upwards in awe at the soft pastel palette of heavenly paintings. The history of this Church is as heart-warming as its interiors and frescoes.

Emperor Charles VI vowed to build a Church dedicated to his namesake if the plague that hit Vienna in 1713, would leave. His namesake, St Charles Borromeo, was a bishop in 16th century Italy, who ministered to Milanese plague victims and became renowned for it. The plague did leave Vienna. So the Emperor ordered construction using the Baroque master Johann Bernard Fischer von Erlach.


Cafe Schwarzenberg
A very typically vintage-looking coffee house with chandeliers and wood. I treat myself to the house Apple Strudel and ‘Alte Heisse Schokolade’. The hot chocolate comes with cinnamon, nutmeg & Chantilly cream; the warm Strudel filled with nuts, raisins, cinnamon and custard! It’s so warming on a cold winter’s day, truly the perfect pit-stop to refuel between sights. By evening it turns into a Concert Coffee House. Head here by 7pm to be serenaded by a piano and singer or classical quartet; a soothing way to end a busy day.

 

3. STEPHANSDOM or ST STEPHEN’S CATHEDRAL
Arguably the most iconic and visible building in Vienna, seen from right across the city. Its North & South Towers dominate the skyline, always striking, against icy blue skies by day or an inky black night sky.

Anticipation has been building to explore this. As I approach it, it’s impossible not to snap away furiously with the camera. Every angle tells a new story. Inside, beware the flood of tourists! It can be difficult to find a peaceful spot from which to appreciate the marvel. I take the lift to the North Tower, to a view en pleine air. TIP TO GIRLS: At this height on a blustery day, avoid Marilyn Monroe moments by dressing appropriately!

The view takes in the colourful and ornately patterned roof of the Cathedral and far beyond. Peer down the side of the Cathedral – the further down I look, the more impressive the entire Romanesque façade of the cathedral in intricate detailed carvings. It’s astonishing, the forethought that would have gone into the creation in the 11th Century.

Insider tip: Huge tip here if, like me, you’re not a fan of crowded tourist spots…Do not miss the Domschatz Treasury exhibition. The entrance is by the exit and very easy to miss. Most flocks of tourists walk straight past it. I pay only 4E to a virtually tourist-free vantage point with the most extraordinary view along the entire Cathedral from a height, next to the impressive Organ pipes. It’s as though I’ve been let in on a secret up here, as hordes of crowds amass below. From up here, it’s easier to appreciate the impressive design of the ceiling arches and sense of magnitude of 18 altars inside the main atrium.

  

Café Frauenhuber
Bordering Stephensplatz, this is Vienna’s oldest coffee house, since 1824… and stepping inside feels it! It is extremely traditional with narrow cabins carved into the walls and cosy seating areas. The café has chronicled the history of the building and traced it back to being a bath house in the 1300s. Later it became a barber-surgeon offering an entire gamut from shaving & haircuts to massages and surgical procedures! In the 1700s, most impressively, Mozart and Beethoven entertained Society here, with now infamous performances.

I order a classic hot chocolate ‘mit Schlagobers’ – with cream, whilst basking in the history of my surroundings.

 

4.  NASCHMARKT
Foodie paradise: Eat your way around the globe in this incredibly fresh and flavoursome market where everything can be found. The market occupies a central kilometre of road and is an endless mecca of delectable delicacies. It’s come a long way since starting life selling milk bottles in the 16th Century.

INSIDER TIP: If you love Lebanese / Middle Eastern / North African cuisine, eat a ‘Dr Falafel’ mezze platter or Falafel wrap with a polystyrene cup of Gluhwein steaming against the bitter cold frosty air. Over a chat with the owner, I learn that he’s from Turkey but has lived in Vienna for more than a decade.

Insider tip for foodies – Don’t let greed get the better of you immediately. The market is huge and the deeper I venture, the more mouth-watering the food becomes. So be patient, hold your hunger and find bits of everything you fancy for a truly satisfying experience. Needless to say, I do the opposite with eyes bigger than my stomach, to then be stuck exploring the rest wishing I hadn’t been so greedy so early on! Coffee shops and stalls galore here so need to look any firther. But should you wish…

Café Museum is located directly opposite Nachmarkt on Karlsplatz. With beginnings in 1899 and original interior designed by the infamous Adolf Loos, this café has served as a meeting point for painters, writers and composers such as Gustav Klimt, Karl Kraus and Alben Berg. It’s quite open-plan so don’t expect cosy boudoirs but it is steeped in history. Ideal for an Espresso after indulging in Naschmarkt.

   

5. STAATSOPER’ or THE STATE OPERA
A gloriously grand building that virtually occupies its own neighbourhood in Vienna. I can’t help but stop and stare every time I walk by. Perhaps it’s better to just sit across the road and gaze at it for half an hour. By day or lit up by night, the Neo-Renaissance style mid-19th century colossus is attention-grabbing for all the right reasons.

INSIDER TIP: If, like me, you’re a regular at theatres (just a fortnight prior I attended Swan Lake, by the Chinese National Ballet, in Geneva, Switzerland) or simply don’t want to pay a small fortune, you can get in for cheap. Standing ‘seats’ sell for as little as 3E which is fantastic is you’ve little time in Vienna and just want to catch the first hour of a performance and admire the interiors. Or you can actually grab a last-minute seat. Queue up outside the ticket office first thing on the day before the performance to pick up bargain seats from 30E!

 

Café Sacher
Café Sacher is a meeting point for society in Austria today. If you’re curious about the legendary Sacher Torte (cake) made within the Sacher’s own bakery, this is the place to try it. I, however, decide to try Hotel Sacher in a slightly different light…by night at the bar. (Read final paragraph)

5. BELVEDERE PALACE
This 17th Century historic Palace complex is split into a Lower and Upper Palace, both baroque in style. It served as Prince Eugene of Savoy’s summer residence. I find the Upper palace most appealing. Housing a beautiful collection of classic and modern Austrian art dating back to the Middle Ages, works by Gustav Klimt are currently a major attraction. It’s the largest of his collections in the world. You’ll know when you get to the highlight pieces, The Kiss and Judith, as there are swarms of people around catching a glimpse. I have to wait patiently to gain a decent view to appreciate these highlights. The Upper Palace also features a prominent works by the French Impressionists, who left an inimitable mark on art history.

Lower Belvedere houses Prince Eugene’s living quarters and staterooms with the Hall of Grotesques, Marble Gallery and Golden Room.  These are very popular too and can become crowded.

Insider Tip: In both palaces, it’s easy to get caught up in the artwork. But do not forget to look up at the ceilings. The frescoes and interiors of the stately rooms are feats of art in themselves and help me appreciate the Palace from a different perspective. The pretty views from the Upper Palace windows across the gardens, sculptures and fountains deserve some admiration.

 

6. BURGTHEATER
This is the National Theatre of Austria: Tour the inside to marvel at the beauty and lavishness of the interiors. The frescoes, chandeliers and lighting are sumptuously lavish. The interior is an artwork gem and is very fitting for some of the best theatrical performances in the city.

INSIDER TIP: 1. If you wander in alone, don’t assume any part is off limits. Large heavy doors seem closed at first. But as I try, each one opens and I find my way into the heart of the theatre, with a view form the wings. It’s empty when I visit which makes the grandness seem even more overwhelming.  2. Take a peek outside through the large bay windows in the corridors. They showcase picture-postcard views of Rathaus (the City Hall building) and Rathauspark.

From here, ‘Rathaus’ is across the park, a 2 minute walk away. It is another landmark building. But I appreciate it better by night. (See post: ONE NIGHT IN VIENNA)


Café Landtmann
In a prime location at the foot of the Burgtheater lies this renowned coffee house. From the outside, it looks modern with a conservatory extension overlooking the Burg Theatre and Rathaus and park.

But step inside, to enter another era in its long cabin-style original coffee house. Of course, you’ll have to walk right past the patisserie counter, which catches me out every time! I come here three times in total during my Vienna trip and it becomes a firm favourite. The brunch and lunch menus are fantastic with fresh seasonal offerings. I opt for the ‘Salmon variation’ with Crayfish. But the highlight for me is the Landtmann ‘Maria Theresia’ coffee.

Fresh double espresso with orange liqueur, topped with Chantilly cream and orange zest shavings. This coffee is heaven in a tall glass. I sit here admiring the misty Rathauspark with old street lighting, watching the Burg Theatre light up as it gets dark and watching the world pass by.

7. CHURCH OF THE MINORITES
This is my favourite Church in Vienna. It’s spectacular in its simplicity; a 14th century French Gothic style building in the Altstadt. Compared to the overt and highly decorated Baroque and Gothic city Churches, this simplicity is stand-out. I visit on a public holiday when it’s completely empty.

Inside, my attention flits to a replica of The Last Supper. It’s a vivid mosaic depiction created by a Roman artist in the early 1800s.

INSIDER TIPS: 2 fantastic (if I do says so, myself) tips here: 1. As you enter the church, turn to face the back. There’s a large mosaic stained-glass window at the top. As an art-form, the colours and paintings are exquisite.

2. Walk to the back of the Church past the High Altar. To its left, you’ll notice a small wooden door. It may appear closed but push it open. This is the Chapel. It will, likely, be empty. If it is, you’re in luck. Now look up at the breath-taking tall stained glass window here. The chapel is a gem; perfectly brilliant and radiant.

As the late afternoon spectrum of colourful light floods in through the window, I find it incredibly peaceful and moving.  I stay a while, taking it all in.


Café Hawelka

Dating back to 1939, this coffee house was as legendary for its coffee as it was for its owners. Leopold and Josefine Hawelka lived vicariously through the café. Again, a meeting spot for writers, critics and artists, the society heights of the café were reached in the 60s and 70s. Mr Hawelka could be seen on summer days sitting at the entrance greeting guests until recently. The couple were the life and soul of Cafe Hawelka.  Josefine passed away in 2005 and Leopold in 2011.

Here, I order a Melange coffee. Akin to a Cappuccino, it’s made with milder coffee and uses milk. This is a coffee I get quite used to, given the similarities to coffees I drink at home.  If you visit during the day, though, fully expect to wait for a table. Around lunchtime onwards the queue backs out of the door and remains that way until late night.

 

 8. SACHER HOTEL BLAUES BAR
For the most luxurious way to end the day, I head straight to the most fashionable and society-filled spot in town. The infamous Sacher hotel’s ‘Blaues Bar’ or Blue bar is the place to be seen. Intimate, luxuriant and opulent; I sip on a few glasses of champagne and order the renowned Sacher Torte. The chocolate beauty, with a thin layer of Apricot Jam according to a recipe dating back to the 1830s, is still made at Sacher’s own bakery and makes the perfect accompaniment to French vintage Champagne!

Next: Vienna’s main sights in the Hofburg Palace complex and some real traditional Viennese coffee shops highlights! Also the back streets of Vienna: full of character, curios and contradictions…

 



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 Martina Jamnig on 29.11.2012  |   No comments

THE BEST OF VIENNA (Part 1) by Anisha Shah

Anisha Sha, a former BBC Radio & TV News Reporter spend 8 days in Vienna. She tells us about here experiences:

Welcome to Wien

By the time I land, check in at the Hotel Imperial, synonymous with the world’s royalty & dignitaries and spend a few minutes being wowed by my very classic and elegant Suite, it’s 4pm.                       

In winter, by 4.30-5pm, it gets dark in Vienna. This; my first ever solo trip, I don’t know my way around and I have no solid idea of where to go or what to see, is slightly daunting. But off I head, map in hand, wrapped up like a porcelain doll in a rustic autumnal dress, boots, coat, hat, scarf and gloves! (Well, I’m certainly dressed the part!)


INSIDER TIP – SEE THE CITY BY NIGHT FIRST!
It becomes quickly apparent that a night tour is the most majestic way in which to kick-start any Vienna tour. Initially, circling the Ringstrasse, which replaced a 13thcity wall, is the ideal way to begin. You can’t really get lost as it’s a large loop that lands you back in the same spot. Most of the city’s historical sights are dotted along it or stem off into side streets, in an illuminated display fanning the city like the feathers of a proud peacock.

 

A little trepidation accompanies my tour as I walk alone in a city I don’t know at all. I’m quite conscious of my surroundings and safety, especially at night. But at the same time, I feel overwhelmingly liberated; like being up a grown up little girl on an adventure. My quest? To loop half the Ringstrasse tonight via seeking out a particular Viennese coffee house.


NASCHMARKT – A FOODIE’S DELIGHT
One of the first places I stumble into (strongly led by a sixth sense for food!) is Naschmarkt. A formidable fresh food market, it’s a sensory and sensual experience for any gastronomy lover. Fresh fruits and vegetables, all nobbly and oddly shaped, some which I can’t even identify, brightly coloured, dried fruits, every world cuisine from Turkish mezze to Thai and gourmet fish and chips.

Small quirky bars and cosy restaurants, fresh fish and meats, every type of olive, dressing and entire shops devoted to wines of the world. I nibble on a few bits as I wander through, vowing to return (as I do, several times).

 

ILLUMINATED NIGHT SIGHTS
From here, an intricate dome of golden leaves twinkles at me in the street lights. This marks the Secession, home to works of art by the Secessionists who were an iconoclastic group of artists from the 18th and 19th centuries. They were known for producing works of art forsaking all art history and tradition and, as such, made a name for themselves. Gustav Klimt was one of the founders.  The building is a siren; eye-catching from all around.

From here I walk towards the Museums Quartier towards the City hall building, Rathaus. Passing the iconic Kunsthistorisches Museum and Natural History Museum (both are identical except for the statues at the height of each building). Lit up by night, both vast buildings and grounds are impressive. It’s impossible not to get carried away taking photographs. Inside, they’re so vast they could easily each justify a full day.

 

THROUGH THE ‘STREETCAR’
Walking past the Museums Quartier, I spot a brilliant photo opp. The ’streetcar’ or tram is one of the easiest and most accessible ways to get around the city. Through the Number 2, I spot a marvellous view of the grand Parliament building.

 

FALL IN LOVE WITH RATHAUS, THE VIENNA CITY HALL
I approach Rathaus from one side. Before it lies the pretty Rathauspark which is dewy and Autumnal in October. Vienna’s infamous Christmas markets are just setting up stall. I feel fairly safe wandering through it by night to find the perfect spot, of course for a photograph. This building is one of my favourites in Vienna. A striking Gothic façade, emblazoned in intricate carvings, spot-lit and interspersed methodically with flashes of red bouquets of flowers at every window. It’s a blissful blend of striking and beautiful. The awe-inspiring building was built in the 19th century and replaced the outgrown Old City Hall or ‘Altes Rathaus’ – worth seeing to compare the drastic difference in size and show. It reminds me of the Houses of Parliament in London, by where I live, so perhaps that’s a subconscious reason.

 

From the front entrance, look back to a glorious view of the grand Hofburg Theatre. I’m also in awe of the arches in the long narrow hallways of the City Hall with a row of antique lamps lighting up the pathway. Also from here, catch glorious views towards St Stephen’s Cathedral in the distance; its towers lit up and scouring the inky black night skies.

 

RE-PLANNING MY TRIP AROUND TRADITIONAL VIENNESE COFFEE HOUSES
On my way back towards the hotel, I actively seek out Café Sperl. It’s on Gumpendorfer Strasse. With such a quirky name, it’s easy to identify. And it happens to be en route (-ish).

Peering in from the bitter chill outside, it exudes a warm glow. Café Sperl is cosy with a simplistic but elegant vintage feel with crystal chandeliers. Down a long fairly dark street, this place at the end is filled with light and overflowing with steaming hot chocolates, Melange coffees and cakes. Well, it would be rude not to!

Sitting alone in a coffee house is my first personal challenge. Though in Vienna it’s the norm, travelling alone is new to me so I do feel a little shy. As I enter, I’m directed towards a huge pool table covered in newspapers from around the globe, each attached to a long wooden handle. I pick one up and take it to my seat. Remembering a friend’s tip, I order the Einspanner and a traditional Apfel strudel. The eclectic mix of people is intriguing, so much so I barely get time to look down and read past the first headline. My mind wanders to ‘coffee house literature’ as it was coined when leading writers and poets penned much of their work in Viennese coffee houses, as Karl Kraus did right here. I can hear accents from around the globe, as a healthy mix of tourists and locals frequent Café Sperl; all united in joy to be here. The entire time is such a sensory experience, there’s little time to feel alone.

 

Before long, my apple strudel and Einspanner coffee have disappeared, as has the glass of water served with every hot drink in any traditional Viennese coffee house. Note to self, Einspanner is black strong Espresso underneath the mountain of cream. It’s a bit harsh for me. The cakes are now calling. After succumbing to a large piece of Torte, I accept that this Coffee House tradition may be the one major aspect around which I base all my sightseeing activities for the next week. And thus I do, plan my sights around coffee house pit stops, visiting, comparing and eating and drinking my way around Vienna!

Would you like to read more on Anisha’s experience? Keep your eye on the blog.

More also on www.ani-shah.com



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 Martina Jamnig on 26.11.2012  |   No comments

Life in Saalbach Hinterglemm

My name is Anna-Theresa Brettermeier, I am 19 years old and I attend the tourism college in Bad Hofgastein. This summer I got to spend two months in London doing an internship at the Austrian National Tourist Office.  London is an exciting city with lots of great places to visit, but it is very different from my small village Saalbach Hinterglemm in Austria. My parents own the Theresia Gartenhotel ****Superior and the attached Aparthotel**** Johann.  Since I was a small girl I have loved welcoming guests to our family-run hotel, and it has always been my dream – as the fourth generation – to continue with our tradition and take over the hotel.

Even though I have enjoyed my time in London, the past two months have also made me realise just how beautiful my home really is.  Unique landscape surrounds the valley all year round, and the mountains literally make you feel free. In summer, Saalbach Hinterglemm offers a wide choice of hiking trails across the grassy hills of the Pinzgau, as well as lots of fantastic mountainbike paths. For those who like a challenge and are in good physical condition, I highly recommend the Seven Summits Tour.

My mum especially loves to show our guests the local treasures of the region. The Sinnlehenalm in Leogang is one of those places. After a 30 minute hike, the guests can look forward to a guided tour of the Organic Dairy Farm.  Mr. Scheiber explains how the cheese is produced fresh everyday, thanks to his 18 cows. Afterwards, the guest can of course sample the delicious goods. On the way back to the hotel there is a stop at the traditional weekly market in Saalfelden. When I visit this market, the first thing I do is to eat the freshly made Bladln mit Sauerkraut. This is one of the favourite Austrian recipes, made out of pastry filled with bacon and Sauerkraut.

Someone else to visit when you are here is the 76 year old bee keeper Sepp Grünwald, who lives at the end of the Glemm Valley. Sepp will show you his bees and tell you about the organic honey they produce. As you might have guessed, organic food is really important for my family and our hotel. My mum places great value on high quality food, and because of that we provide organic cuisine for our guests every day. We get fresh vegetables from the organic farm Stechausbauer several times a week, which is 30 km away.

Not to forget winter in Saalbach Hinterglemm, when the whole valley is covered in white snow. In winter, I always get up very early in the morning, put on my snowboard gear and start my day with a healthy breakfast. At 9 a.m, my day tour on my board starts at the lift opposite our hotel. My favourite hut, where I always have lunch, is the Hintermais Alm, and it was here that my grandmother born. If you enjoy traditional Austrian food like cheese dumplings with butter and chives, then you will love it there. Who knows, maybe I will see you on a hiking or skiing tour in Austria soon?!



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 Anna Blum on 29.08.2012  |   No comments

On Nostalgic Tracks in Austria

by Mervyn Jones

Austria not only has one of the most efficient rail networks in Europe, it also has some of the finest tourist and heritage railways, tramways and funiculars that can be found anywhere in the world.

 

The most outstanding perhaps is the world-famous Semmeringbahn, on ÖBB’s Westbahn from Gloggnitz to Mürzzuschlag, a thrilling 42 km (26 miles) crossing of the Semmering Pass (alt. 965m – 3,136ft).  The construction of the route in the mid-nineteenth century was a magnificent feat of engineering, later recognised by being the first railway to become a World Heritage Site.

 

The Semmeringbahn is not alone. Every part of Austria offers exciting journeys; the Brennerbahn crosses the mountainous Brenner Pass (alt. 1,370m – 4,495ft) into Italy; the Gesäuse runs down the exquisite valley of the same name; the Giselabahn, named after Emperor Franz Josef’s eldest daughter, follows the Brixen valley to reach the superb lakeland scenery at Zell am See; the Mittenwaldbahn climbs its way up Tirol’s mountains high above Innsbruck to Garmish Partenkirchen in Bavaria; and, the Mariazellerbahn (Pilgrim’s Railway) runs from St. Pölten to the town of Mariazell, the most important pilgrimage destination in Austria.

 

ÖBB services are complemented by many privately run companies; for example, the Attergaubahn to the lake at Attersee, the Traunseebahn from the lakeside station at Gmunden and the Vorchderferbahn to Lambach, site of the ancient Abbey. Another is the Murtalbahn, the country’s longest narrow gauge line (65 km – 38 miles) but the shortest is the Reisseck-Hoehenbahn at only 3.4 km (2 miles) but compensated by being the highest in Austria (alt. 2,244m – 7,293ft).

 

Trams and funiculars also feature in Austria. Vienna has the largest tram network in the world operating modern and vintage trams over 230 km (144 miles) of track. Incidentally, in terms of quality of life, in 2011 Vienna was voted the best to place to live in the world. Did the trams help? Excellent tram services are also operated in Graz, Gmunden, Linz and Innsbruck. Graz’s Schloßberg (castle) perched high above the city is reached by funicular, as is the castle in Salzburg by the FestungsBahn. There are 13 other funiculars such as the Hallstätter-Salzburgbahn, for example, which eases a visit up to the oldest salt mines in the world, the Saltzwelten near the idyllic lakeside village of Hallstatt.

 

Austria takes its transport heritage seriously by preserving a wealth of historic trains, trams, buses and ships. In this the ÖBB ErlebnisBahn leads the way; each year they publish Ausflüge fur Einsteiger listing ninety excursions using historic material on a wealth of beautiful routes. And it’s not just on tracks; lake and river sailings and rides on historic buses also feature.

 

The world-famous Zillertalbahn must not be forgotten. Diesel-powered carriages routinely operate on the 32-km (20 miles) journey between Jenbach and Mayrhofen in the Zillertal Valley, but are regularly supplemented by one of five beautifully preserved 100-year old steam locomotives, to the delight of passengers, young and old. Also leaving Jenbach is the Achenseebahnwhich deploys cog-driven steam locomotives to take passengers up to the Achensee, the largest mountain lake in the Tyrol, arrivals and departures being timed to coincide with sailings on the lake.

 

There are a number of transport museums including the national railway museum (Eisenbahnmuseum) at Strasshof which houses an impressive collection. Further west, at Ampflwang near Linz, is the Austrian Society for Railway History (Österreichische Gesellschaft für Eisenbahngeschichte, ÖGEG for short) which safeguards a significant collection of vehicles, many of which are regularly used for excursions on their own tracks, the Kohlebahn, or on ÖBB’s mainline routes.

 

We hope you have enjoyed this brief glimpse of Austria’s railway scene. To learn more, consult The Essential Guide to Austrian Railways and Tramways and A Pictorial Guide to Alpine Railways, both written by Mervyn Jones and published by The Oakwood Press. Mervyn can be contacted by his website www.rail-guides.eu                                       

 

Genießen Sie Österreich! – Enjoy Austria!



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 Anna Blum on 17.04.2012  |   No comments

On Tracks in Austria

by Mervyn Jones

 

Austria has much to offer the visitor and is a delight to visit at any time of the year, use of the extensive rail network being an ideal mode of travel to get around this varied and interesting country.

 

Those whose passion is winter know Austria’s attractions only too well. It is a mountainous country with over two-thirds of its land mass being above an altitude of 500 m (1,640 ft). Given such altitudes it is not surprising that snow is the predominant feature from November to late March, making Austria arguably the ski- and snow-boarding capital of Europe. The Austrian authorities are well used to coping with the inconveniences of the inclement weather, having on hand some of the latest and best snow-clearing equipment in the world. The operation of tried and tested contingency plans efficiently protect the country’s transport infrastructure, by keeping the roads, railways and airports open with the minimum of interruption. There is no fear of being trapped in Austria; that is, unless one wants to be!

 

But there is much more to Austria than just its winter activities. Summer offers different landscapes, beginning with the arrival of Spring as hosts of alpine blooms burst through the melting snows after their long winter sleep. As the weather gets warmer, so the magnificence of another incarnation of the outstanding scenery grows. Lush green meadows dotted with charming rustic villages give way to a natural beauty set in a backdrop of snow-capped mountains. It was no accident, therefore, that areas around the city of Salzburg and the nearby lake district of Salzkammergut were used in the 1965 filming of Rodgers and Hammerstein’s musical The Sound of Music.

 

Staying with this theme, Austria is synonymous with all types of music. Vienna, of course, is a jewel in this musical crown. It was here under the patronage of the Hapsburgs that the city became centre of classical music, attracting the likes of Mozart, Strauss and Beethoven. That musical tradition continues to this day, especially so on New Year’s Day when the morning concert in the Golden Hall of the Wien Musikverein is performed not only for the pleasure of the Viennese but, through the medium of television, for audiences throughout the world.

 

Apart from its capital Vienna, Austria has many great cities all distinctively different in their character. Innsbruck which hosted the first Winter Youth Olympics at the beginning of 2012; Salzburg the birthplace of Mozart and since 1997 a UNESCO World Heritage Site; Klagenfurt which boasts Europe’s largest non-sea beach at Wörthersee; Graz, the second largest city after Vienna, with as many as six universities; Linz spanning both sides of the Danube; Eisenstadt where Joseph Haydn lived much of his life and is buried; and finally Bregenz on the eastern shores of Lake Constance where each summer the Bregenzer Festspiele performing arts festival takes place on a floating stage.

 

So how does the visitor take advantage of the many opportunities that this great country offers? There are over 6,000 km (3,750 miles) of railway routes running the length and breadth of Austria. Österreichische Bundesbahnen, ÖBB for short (Austrian Federal Railways), operate a modern fleet of trains offering comfortable, reliable and fast services on a network of which nearly sixty per cent is electrified. The four main routes, all running to and from Vienna, are the Nordbahn to the Czech border, the Ostbahn towards Hungary, the Südbahn to Graz and the Slovenian border and the Westbahn, by far the longest continuous rail route in Austria, which travels west to Bregenz.

 

Hopefully this article has provided the reader with just a taste of the many attractive places to visit in Austria, the railways playing an important role both for access and enjoyment. For those who want to know more, Mervyn Jones has written The Essential Guide to Austrian Railways and Tramways published by The Oakwood Press. You can also get in touch with Mervyn directly via his website www.rail-guides.eu.

 

Genießen Sie Österreich! – Enjoy Austria!



 Anna Blum on 20.02.2012  |   No comments

Rob’s ski safari – Zugspitz Arena

Rob Rees is on a tour through Austria. Discover with him Austria’s hidden gems. After some days in Schladming he is on his way to the Zugspitz Arena in Tirol.

“Our fourth Austrian ski area and fourth Austrian province in just over a week was the Zugspitz Arena where we stayed at the Sporthotel Loisach in Lermoos.

The hotel is a friendly ‘home from home’ run by the Rieder family. The 79 year old father Josl Rieder was World Slalom Champion in 1958 and the hotel’s bar areas are crammed with his many national & international trophies (as well as a signed, framed photograph for his daughter-in-law Hillo from Lady Di). Josl also won races in Kitzbuehel and Wengen and lit the Olympic flame at the 1964 Innsbruck Winter Games so he was the ‘Klammer’ of his day. We skied with him for a few runs on Grubigstein and he clearly still has the magic! If he was a champion with the old planks – Kaestle were his weapons of choice way back then- he has no problems with today’s carvers.

Lermoos coincidentally produced a string of 1960s ski champions like Walter Schuster & Berni Rauter and even today, nearby Bichlbach is the home of current Austrian darling Nicole Hosp. There’s clearly something in the water around here. You’ll also not go hungry at the Sporthotel Loisach either. A legendary breakfast selection, excellent evening cuisine and the most knowledgeable Belgian wine man Luc to walk you through a wide range of Austria’s high quality wines. Many guests particularly English, Irish and Dutch, return year after year and relax into the calm pace of life and endless quality food. One couple from Cheshire were on their 20th year!

If you can tear yourself away from the breakfast buffet, the best skiing is on the Grubigstein above Lermoos, affording majestic views  of the Mieminger mountains and the Wetterstein range and the 2962m Zugspitze. Initial impressions of the Zugspitz Arena is of a really traditional group of villages, framed by some incredible mountains and 7 distinct ‘old style’ ski hills on the same pass. There’s plenty of tree skiing on blues and reds for the intermediates; enough blacks, ski routes and ‘free ride’ if you need something more testing. A total of 149km of pistes in the Arena (only 13km are black/ski routes) but if you have the ‘Top Snow card’, you can also nip over to nearby Germany and ski in Garmisch-Partenkirchen and Mittenwald. The area is worth a long weekend at least. And it is less than 2hrs transfer from Munich or Memmingen airports but it can get crowded out by the Southern Germans.

To round the trip off, we took the single gondola to the summit of the Zugspitze from Ehrwald on Wednesday morning. The views, looking over the Hohe Munde and down towards the Inn valley, were simply breathtaking. We hopped back and forth between Bavaria and Tirol on the summit, enjoying the excellent cafe and gazing agog at the entire Eastern Alps. You can also ski on Zugspitze on the Zugspitzplatt but you first need to take a gondola down from the summit. A bit convoluted with 5 drag lifts and one chair lift… but you’ve got to be able to say you’ve skied it!

Finally, our last two hours skiing awaited us on the Ehwalder Alm, a dozen fun reds and blues on the Gaistal flanks of the Zugspitze. A relaxed way to finish the trip and after one last snack(!) at the Hotel Loisach, we packed the car and headed for the autobahns, the Rhein valley, the Polders and eventually Calais.

It has been quite an incredible week and a bit. Four Austrian provinces, four great resorts, variable and sometimes severe weather and plenty of new discoveries. Austria for me is the only place in the world to ski. Rich culture, diverse ski areas, a real, genuine personal welcome and total pride and excellence in everything to do with their national winter sport.

I now know Austria that much better but it makes me want to get to know it even better still. The ‘hidden gems’ list for next season is already taking shape!  

…..Deferregental, Heiligenblut, Pillerseetal, Hinterstoder, Kleinerwalsertal, the bits of Ski Amade left untracked this time… and so on.”



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 Martina Jamnig on 03.02.2012  |   No comments

Rob’s skisafari – Schladming / Ski Amadè

Rob Rees is on a tour through Austria. Discover with him Austria’s hidden gems. This time he is skiing in Ski Amadé.  

“Day 6 of the Austrian Ski Tour began with the retrieval of the trusty BMW from an Alpendorf hillside where we had had to abandon it three evenings before with the endless snow and mammouth drive from Bregenzerwald. We were sad to leave the Salzburger Sportwelt, all of its villages covered by the extensive Ski Amadé pass. Tree skiing is always ‘good for the soul’ and there were still plenty of nearby ski areas left to explore – Grossarl, Gasteinertal, Hochkoenig, Kleinarl and Zauchensee. With light overnight snow, the pistes were never going to be in better condition. 

We somewhat reluctantly accepted that we’re just going to have to put those resorts on the list for next winter! That’s the beauty of Austrian skiing. There are so many resorts in so many different parts of Austria; some suitable for a day, some perfect for a long weekend and some to keep you busy all week. But what Austria offers over and above any other country is a consistently good welcome, excellent service, classy family-run hotels, huts that serve decent food in beautiful surroundings and a lift and snowmaking infrastructure that has been upgraded and rivals anywhere these days.

Half-board in an Austria hotel is significantly better value than in some other countries, no-one teaches skiing better than the Austrians and skiing is so much more than just bashing the miles out on bland motorway pistes above the treeline in sterile, purpose-built ski sprawls.

Enough of my evangelism…

We dropped onto the Bischofshofen motorway and took the A10 to Radstadt, leaving Salzburgerland and on into the fourth Austrian Bundesland of the trip, Steiermark or Styria. The heavy snow returned and by the time we’d managed the short drive to Schladming-Dachstein, the wind had picked up and the visibility had closed in for the day. We gently coaxed the car up to the village of Rohrmoos, scattered about a mile above Schladming set on its own plateau (Alm, Moos – whatever you want to call it!). We gratefully decamped to the new arx-genusshotel, a stylish designer hotel run with considerable skill by the Veith family. Comfortable rooms, a good kitchen and a simple modern spa area.

Rohrmoos is ski convenient, if a little quiet, and set on the lower slopes of the Hochwurzen. Schladming’s two home mountains, Planai (1,894m) and Hochwurzen (1,850m), are sandwiched between Reiteralm (1,960m) and Hauser Kaibling (2,015m), creating a four-mountain, interlinked skier’s paradise, also covered by the Ski Amade pass. Most of the slopes are northfacing so it can be a bit chilly but the snow stays good and you’re well protected by mainly tree lined runs.

The Austrian ski team train on the Reiteralm and it was here Hermann Maier ‘racetuned’ in secret, before announcing his miraculous comeback in 2003, after his near leg amputation in a motorcycle accident (Read the brilliant book ‘Race of my Life’). Schladming offers some of the longest uninterrupted runs in Europe, like the 4.6km FIS run and the endless 7.7km Hochwurzen Valley run right by the hotel.

We skied windswept Planai rather begrudgingly in snow on the Saturday, nipping into the many mountain restaurants to thaw out. Our patience was eventually rewarded with blue skies on Sunday and ‘the day of days’ on the Reiteralm, albeit at

-12 degrees. Nothing that plenty of layers, fast skiing and several more hut stops could not fix. We consumed a tremendous Tiroler Groestl, freshly prepared, at the Eiskarhuette on the way down from Reiteralm on red 1! The views over to the Dachstein were just ‘to die for’.

Monday brought unbelievable piste conditions on Planai, warmer temperatures and very few skiers! However, we spent most of the day on Hauser Kaibling, our favourite of the four Schladming mountains, as well as being the highest. It has bags of new lift investment, a brilliant black FIS run 1a to the base gondola in Haus and just so many pistes for ‘ripping it’. We tried the Stoecklhuette hut for a traditional Styrian Kasknoch’n, made with some mighty fine regional cheese. The fresh local Schladminger Beer is worth some study too!

Schladming is an absolute ‘must ski’ resort in any keen skier’s lifetime. It is little surprise that it has been selected to host the 2013 World Ski Championships next February. We had to drag ourselves from the slopes at the end of the ski day.”

Rob’s skisafari … to be continued …



 Martina Jamnig on 23.01.2012  |   2 Comments

Rob’s Skisafari – Bregenzerwald / Vorarlberg & Salzburger Sportwelt

Rob Rees is on a tour through Austria. Discover with him Austria’s hidden gems.

“We are five days into the Grand Tour of Austria’s lesser known ski resorts, having just left St. Johann / Alpendorf en route for the Dachstein area.

We started the Tour in the village of Au in the Bregenzerwald in Vorarlberg. The area is magical, totally unspoilt and so accessible from the Southern German motorways and the main Vorarlberg town of Dornbirn. Friedrichshafen and Memmingen airports are both within an hour making it a perfect short break destination. We were lucky to stay at the Hotel Roessle in Au. It’s a 300 year old building, tastefully renovated and run with such passion and care by the Simma family. Good food, attentive service and a simple spa and sauna area.

Snow kept coming but we managed to get up to Damuels for 2 hours deep snow to reacquaint ourselves with our skis and trusted equipment on the first day. ‘Warm-up Day’; well that’s what we convinced ourselves as the afternoon refreshments slipped down easily. How good that Austrian beer always tastes!

Bregenzerwald is a real find. Totally authentic; mostly dairy farms and wooden buildings. 22 villages scattered along the main road so you never feel like you are in a developed or commercialised ski resort. Skiing co-exists with real life. The ambience is excellent; the Mountain cheese is abundant and it is the home of 17 cheese producers and a Cheesemakers academy. There’s also plenty of good intermediate skiing split over three big mountain ranges; Warth-Schrocken, Damuels-Mellau and Au’s Diedamskopf. 200km in total giving plenty of runs, even for the most dedicated piste basher. They are all covered by the Three Valleys or 3 Taeler lift pass www.3taeler.com .

Day two provided us with the ‘day of all days’. After a morning skiing the delightful Diedamskopf by Au, the snow just kept coming. A 4 hour car journey from the Roessle to our next stop -Alpendorf near St Johann in Pongau- took seven hours. In hindsight, a very wise decision to abandon our skiiing on the Diedamskopf and head for the roads early. It is easy for Brits to misjudge the conditions and easier to fail to see that huge quantities of snow can even fox the super-efficient Austrians. We’re so used to just travelling around Austria effortlessly most ski seasons on pristine roads.

A memorable car journey began; through the Alberg tunnel and along the Inn valley with famous name ski resorts flashing by us every twenty minutes on the clear motorway – Monatafon, St Anton, Ischgl, Galtur, Alpbach, Seefeld, Zillertal. We headed off onto side roads at Woergl tracking through the ‘Ski Welt Wilder Kaiser’ resorts of Soll & Ellmau. No worries about the lack of snow here! We crawled behind snowploughs, tail to tail, via Fieberbrunn and Leogang until we hit Saalfelden. Unsurprisingly the pass near the Hoechkoenig at Hinterthal was closed so we diverted via Zell am See, to take the long way round. Massive tree slides at Taxenbach reduced traffic to single file but the Austrian Army were on hand to chop it up and clean it all away.

Suffice to say a good night’s sleep was had at the Pension Palfengut high above Alpendorf, when we finally reached our destination.

To discover the Salzburger Sportwelt, it would probably have been better to be based in Flachau or Wagrain. You will be more central and these villages provide easier access to a broader range of slopes. It’s also simpler to build Kleinarl, Flachauwinkl and Zauchensee into a day’s tour. With Alpendorf as our base, we had to rush to get back home at night via the rather convoluted, ageing Gernkogel chair lifts. However, there are still some superb red runs from the top of the Grafenberg which flatter even the most ‘out of practice’ skiers. The Grafenberg is serviced by a fast new gondola from Wagrain….but it is better to use the continual bus link from this Wagrain base station to the ‘Flying Mozart’ gondola to get to the Flachau ski area www.flachau.at

Flachau’s Griessenkareck has some long wooded red runs that fan out in various directions from the summit and you’ll have a smile on your face all day. The ‘must do’s’ are the Hermann Maier World Cup run down to the centre of Flachau, the long red to the bottom of the ‘Rote 8′ gondola and the red to the bottom of the ‘Flying Mozart’ lift. The conditions could not have been better. Perfectly groomed pistes, 1 degree temperature, some beautiful huts and long uncrowded descents.”



 Martina Jamnig on 16.01.2012  |   2 Comments

Austria meets World

Last week it was once again time for the Austrian National Tourist Office to bring the corporate jackets out from the back of the wardrobe, pile the latest brochures and promotional material into the back of a truck, and assemble the finest Austrian partners and sponsors for the annual World Travel Market at ExCel London. The leading global event for the travel industry, this 4-day event is a must for all international tourist boards to present their destination. Having missed out on the previous year (no, I didn’t do a runner following several comments on what a long week it would be, I had generally already booked the holiday!), I was not sure what to expect from this much talked about event.

First and foremost it was the dimensions that surprised me, from the crowds of people pushing their way down the platform at the DLR stop, to the sheer size of the Austria stand which encompassed a main desk and platforms for 28 partners, encircling a Viennese-style café. And then there was the buzz, the galore of decorated stands from all over the world, and the chance to hold an Abu Dhabi falcon followed by a bite-size Thai delicacy. All of this put into perspective the breadth of the industry that we work in and the enthusiasm those involved can evoke.

All the more wonderful to have a bustling Austria stand and that pick-me-up kind of visitor who never failed to grace the desk just as the legs were starting to get tired, telling you how fabulous their tour of the “Hoff Burk” had been. “I’m sorry, Hoff Burk?” Awkward silence. “Yes, you know that historical building in Vienna.” Hurrah, the Hofburg! “Oh yes, the Hoff Burk. Magnificent little piece of Austrian workmanship.”

So back in the office this week we trawl through the tons of brochures collected, work our way down contact lists and eat leftover Mozartkugeln to our heart’s content. And I think to myself – if somewhat cheesily after all of this global cheer – that we really do promote an incredible country and I am in fact happy to don that corporate jacket every once in a while.



 Anna Blum on 15.11.2011  |   No comments